Now, FOUR Years in China

I hope you are well! JP, I loved your e-mail from a couple of weeks ago. You had written on a quiet Sunday afternoon, which I confess made me a little homesick. In three months I’d love to join you for brunch and a bloody mary.

Sorry it has been a while since I’ve written! We haven’t done anything too exotic, but there are a few things to report:

Our ayi (housekeeper) started last week. She is very young (23), but seems capable and has a kind disposition. The language barrier is difficult to work around, so we do a lot of pantomime. (I challenge anyone to a game of charades when we get back to the US!) Jenny, the ayi, works for us 20 hours a week and for the French family across the hall in our building for 20 hours. The whole situation will take a little getting used to, but I think it will be good.

Two weekends ago I went on a shopping tour with some teachers from WAB (Western Academy of Beijing - Madeline’s school) who live in our compound. Wow! What a crazy experience! Everything here is negotiable. I got a crash course at the clothing/shoe/handbag market. There is a whole exchange that you have to go through which can be very entertaining if the vendor is fun, but not if they are too aggressive. I was too intimidated to really buy much, but I bought a cute pair of shoes for 100 yuan ($12.00). The next day, David, Madeline and I took the shuttle in to the shopping area so that I could show David what I had learned. We got some DVDs for about $2.00 each and a cool weather wind jacket for $10.00. I found a “Burberry” coat with the asking price of 450 yuan. I ended up paying 200. I also found some “Gucci” shoes for 80 yuan down from 250. Not bad for a gringo.

The crummy news is that we found out that the owner of the town house we were hoping to rent is going to sell rather than rent it. I can’t say that I blame him. His wife is pregnant with twins and he is starting a new job. I wouldn’t want the headache of being a landlord to foreigners with all that going on. We are pretty disappointed, but I’m confident that we’ll find something else. We are meeting with a new broker and the hunt goes on…

Madeline has joined a Brownie troop which I have agreed to co-lead. The existing troop at WAB is full, so we are starting from scratch. Thankfully one of the other co-leaders speaks fluent Chinese and I think it will prove to be extremely helpful in setting up activities. Madeline is looking forward to “getting some really cool patches”. Little does she know that she’ll have to work very hard to earn them!

David and I have been taking Chinese language “lessons” from Mr. Lu, our driver. He has agreed to help us with a few phrases in exchange for us helping him with his English. No disrespect to Mr Lu, but I hope this is not like taking elocution lessons from someone from the sticks of Georgia!

We have been very fortunate to have net some nice people here. We’ve had dinner at someone’s house or gone out every weekend since ore arrival. It is truly fascinating listening to other people’s storied of how they came to be in Beijing. One friend is with US Homeland Security (good to know!), others have been teachers in many places all over the world and some, like us, just want their kids to have different experiences and see the world.

To the point of seeing the world, we can hardly wait for the October break, or as the Chinese call it, National Day. (9/29 - 10/9) We are heading to Bali where we will spend a few days at the beach, climb a volcano and possibly ride an elephant. Next we will go to Singapore for a few days. From what I understand, most people speak english there which will be a welcomed break! They have a Barnes & Noble bookstore, which I am very excited about because I am nearly finished with my current book. There are many western stores in Singapore, so we are looking forward to stocking up on some basic items.

Last weekend was the beginning of the Mid Autumn Festival, which is similar in feeling to our Thanksgiving. There is a great feast with mooncakes for dessert. The exchange of mooncakes with friends symbolizes gratitude, admiration and respect. After dinner, everyone shares the mooncakes, leaving one piece uneaten for friends and family who are not present. Needless to say, we had many pieces uneaten. We enjoyed a Tex-Mex feast, complete with chips & guacamole, tortilla soup and enchiladas. All things considered, it turned out pretty well!

Every day there is some crazy thing that I see, smell, or hear and I just think “How freaky is that?” The main thing I can’t get used to is the fact that men & boys will drop their pants anywhere and take a pee. When I say anywhere, I am not exaggerating. A kid took a pee in the middle of a shopping area and his parents only laughed. David saw a guy take a crap on the side of the road. The “how freaky is that” winner for last week is the dead guy we saw on the side of a road. People were riding their bikes by him without a second thought. It was later explained to me that the Chinese see the body as temporary. Once you die, you are no longer there, so what does it matter? I suppose I can agree with that. I would rather see more kindness and respect given toward the living. That being said, I still don’t want to end up on the side of a road.

I guess that’s all for now. Keep in touch!

Kisskiss!
Lisa
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First week of school, Great wall, The Courtyard & Haka - August 24

Madeline’s first week of school was a great success! She has made a couple of friends and even has had a play date with another girl in her class. I knew it would be just a matter of time before she would settle in. They have art, music, PE and Chinese language as well as the usual curriculum. I am trying to encourage Madeline to journal her thoughts and experiences, but the truth is that she would rather play in the park that is just outside of our building.

I am glad to report that today I ordered and received water without complication. I’ve been to the grocery store and found the items on my list and have even traveled with a driver by myself. Today the Blacks win! My next adventure will be to take the shuttle by myself to the butcher. I’ll let you know how that goes.

We had so much fun last weekend with the the folks from Apple! Friday night David went with them to a locally famous (or infamous) Irish pub called Durty Nellie’s. It was an “end of the first week of school celebration” with the WAB (Western Academy of Beijing) Board members, staff and teachers. “Free drinks all around!” was the chant. They then went to a Thai restaurant called Red Basil. David said the food was great. I can’t wait to go and try it for myself. Madeline and I were invited over to meet a British family (mom, dad and son who is in Madeline’s class) and go to dinner at a restaurant within walking distance to where we live. This restaurant has an eclectic offering of Italian, Mexican, Thai and Chinese food. The food was good and they have a respectable wine list, so I think this place will become regular hangout. Madeline and I had a great time.

Saturday morning we woke up to meet our driver at 6:30 AM to go to the Great Wall of China. Our group of 9 toured the Badaling section. It is one thing to see pictures of the wall, but you really have to be there to appreciate its majesty. Madeline and David were the source of much interest to the other tourists at the wall. Apparently most of these people come from the outlying provinces and don’t see many Westerners. Kids would crowd around Madeline for pictures. She didn’t really like that very much, but would oblige if I could hold her. David captivated children and adults alike. The look on their faces was, “Ooh! Look at that white man! He so tall and big!” In the United States, we think that China is so exotic and unknown. It is hard to believe that on the other side of the world there are people who think that of us.

Saturday evening was David’s and my first outing without Madeline. We had a highly recommended babysitter who is a kindergarten teacher’s assistant at WAB. They watched Charlie and the Chocolate Factory on DVD, had popcorn and did each other’s hair. I’m pretty sure that Jenny (the sitter) met Kit, Samantha, Nellie and Abbey and indulged Madeline in some playtime with the dolls. Madeline loved Jenny and I think she was grateful for an evening in.

David and I, along with people from Apple, Powerschool & WAB went for cocktails at the Beijing Grand Hyatt and then to dinner at The Courtyard restaurant. After hearing so much about The Courtyard, I was prepared for it not to meet my expectations, but the atmosphere was enough to let me know we were in for a treat. The humble grey brick exterior gives way to a sleek glass and white interior. Truly something from a magazine. David had pork stuffed with bleu cheese that was melt-in-your-mouth divine. I had tuna & salmon tartare for my appetizer and an entree of coconut jumbo prawns. Both were amazing. For dessert, everyone had a chocolate mousse cake that was out of this world. Our host chose white, and red wine to have with appetizers and dinner respectively and then champagne with dessert. After all that we could have gone home happy, however there was more fun to be had.

After dinner we were treated by some of David’s coworkers to a traditional New Zealand “Haka” dance. “Ha” means breath, “ka” means firey words. This is a dance done before going to war to intimidate one’s opponent. The song and dance together were interesting to see. I’m not sure if it was appropriate to do this on the grounds just outside of the Forbidden City, but no one was arrested although there was some interest from the locals. I’m glad they didn’t take it as New Zealand declaring war on China.

I wish I could send a video tape of all we have seen and heard. Words cannot describe the vibrancy of the “Lantern Festival” that is just beginning to get underway. The way the bell and drum towers look through the evening haze is indescribably beautiful, as you know. I am amazed and fascinated by the rich traditions of this culture.

Sorry for another lengthly e-mail. There is just so much to tell you! Please say hello to everyone and give Margot & Ben kisses for me!

Love, Lisa

First weeks in Beijing - August 19

Wow! China is not at all what I expected. Some parts of the city
are beautiful, others - not so much. I have a newfound gratitude for
the things that we take for granted in the US. Driving through the
city, you see streets filled with trash, muddy & unpaved “parking
lots”, goats and sheep walking in herds down the street. You then
turn the corner and everything is well manicured and spotless. One
of the most heartbreaking things we have seen was one evening while
we were out for dinner. We has just finished a plentiful meal where
we were waited on by a staff of 6 or so (there were perhaps 10 in our
party). We had to walk along a crowded street to get to our driver
and there was a girl close to Madeline’s age begging for money or
food. Her mother made her follow us down the street to try and get
close to Madeline. I know the mother was trying to get to David and
me by sending her child to beg. One of our friends who speaks
Mandarin stepped in to control the situation. The juxtaposition of
lives from that girl to Madeline’s was difficult to see. Madeline
lives every day treated like a princess compared to that child.

Yesterday enjoyed the first sunny day since our arrival. Good news
because I was getting a little depressed. The language barrier is
very frustrating. I had a total meltdown yesterday after trying to
order a bottle of water for the flat. (Yes, I did say flat. After
referring to our apartment umpteen times and each time hearing “Oh,
your flat.” I give up. OK, fine its a “flat”.) The grocery store -
don’t even get me started. I know that each day things will get easier.

Madeline started school on Monday, the same as Fulton County. Her
teacher is Canadian and seems very excited about teaching. Madeline
has the “I have no friends blues”, but yesterday she was talking
about a British girl who she played with at recess. I guess that is
progress. My heart aches for her when she says that she misses
home, but I know how she feels. Last night we had ice cream with a
family from New Zealand. A family just like ours; mom, dad &
daughter. It was good for both Madeline and me to have some social
interaction. I find that people (at least the adults) are polite,
but not necessarily friendly or inclusive. I’ll try to reserve final
judgement until we’ve been here for a while.

I am working on finding a driver and a housekeeper. Apparently that
will be the key to my learning Mandarin as well as to my sanity. Not
that I need someone to look after the house and drive us around, but
rather they can save one from humiliating experiences like the one I
had yesterday with the bottle of water. After so many years of being
self sufficient it is hard to rely on others. (I have other issues
accepting “servitude” from another, but that is another rant all
together.) As soon as we find a bigger place, I’ll be on board.

This weekend some folks from Apple arrive. We will do some touristy
stuff - Great Wall, Tiananmen Square - and then to The Courtyard for
dinner. The Courtyard is supposed to be one of the best restaurants
in the city. We’ll see. Thus far the food has been rather “exotic”.

How are things at home? I hope “Pretty” (the car) is treating you well.

The telephone situation is still unresolved. The best way to
communicate is via e-mail. Please keep in touch with the “local
news”! You can check out our blog at www.db3.net/blog to see photos
and more. There are technical difficulties at the moment, but it
should be back up soon! There is a saying among Westerners when
things don’t go as planned: “China wins again!”. In this case, it
proves true.

Stay well. We miss you very much!
Lisa